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- 1). Mark a point on a large open concrete surface that is large enough to hold your truss when laid flat. This mark is the peak of the roof. From this point, measure a distance equal to the height of the truss, from the peak to the bottom edge of the lower cord. Use a long, straight 2-by-4 as a straight edge and draw a line between the two points with chalk.
- 2). Use a 4-foot drywall square to start a perpendicular line going in both directions from the bottom of this vertical line. Use your 2-by-4 straight edge to extend the line out to half the width of your roof truss. The whole line, including both sides, should be equal to the width of your roof truss.
- 3). Position your straight edge between the mark you made at the peak of your roof and one outside end of the new horizontal line. Draw a diagonal line connecting the two. Repeat this on the other side to form the triangle. Place the 2-by-4 along the inside of each of these lines, and trace a second, parallel line, 3 ½-inches inside the first. Do this for both diagonals and for the bottom horizontal, allowing the lines to overlap at the corners.
- 4). Measure 1 ¾-inch on either side of the center vertical line you drew in Step one. Use the 2-by-4 to draw two parallel vertical lines (3 ½-inches apart) on each side of the original. Measure the bottom edge of this triangle from corner to corner and cut a 2-by-4 to that length. Use an angle finder with one arm aligned with the bottom line and one line aligned with one of the outside diagonal peak lines. Write down the angle indicated on the finder. This is the angle you will be cutting your cord ends to.
- 5). Turn the table on your miter saw until the indicator arrow lines up with the correct angle on the miter gauge stamped into the front rounded edge of the table. Lock the table at the correct angle by snapping the end of the handle down or twisting the locking ring on the end of the handle clockwise, depending on the saw. Place your 2-by-4 on the bed of the saw, pressing it against the back fence. Align the blade with the outside bottom corner of your board, and then miter each end. Make one right and one left cut to form an elongated trapezoid. Use this same angle for all of the angled end cuts on the truss.
- 6). Place the lower cord in its place on your life-size mockup, with its bottom edge on the bottom line and the corners aligned with the outside diagonal lines. Measure from the top edge of the lower cord, along this outside diagonal to the peak. Cut two pieces to that length, with the same angled cuts you made for the lower cord. These are your upper cords. Align them with the outline to form the peak.
- 7). Measure from the top edge of the lower cord to the center of the bottom edge of the peak. Cut a 2-by-4 to that length and mark the cut end. Miter the corners to the center mark at the same angle you used for the cord ends and fit it in place in the outline.
- 8). Use 12-inch squares of cardboard to trace the joints at the corners and the top and bottom of the center vertical brace. Cut them out with a utility knife. Trace these patterns onto 1/2-inch plywood. Cut these gussets, or joining plates, out on a band saw. Make two of each. Apply construction adhesive to one face of each gusset and press it to the joint it was cut for. Staple the gussets to the truss with a pneumatic staple gun and 1 ½-inch staples.
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