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- 1). Determine a pattern for laying the HardieBacker sheets. Seams between sheets should not align with seams in the subfloor. Stagger seams between sheets so that corners meet whenever possible. Measure for each sheet and leave a 1/8-inch gap between sheets.
- 2). Measure and mark sheets for cutting. Place a straightedge on the sheet to guide the scoring knife, then draw the knife along the straightedge several times to deeply score the sheet. Snap the sheet along the cut. Cut and fit all the pieces in a dry layout before installing them on the floor.
- 3). Mix unfortified mortar according to the manufacturer's directions. Spread the mortar on the subfloor using the 1/4-inch notched trowel in the area where the cut HardieBacker board will be installed. Lay the cut panel on top of the mortar, pattern-side down, and walk on it to fully embed the panel in the mortar. Make any final adjustments to ensure the board is in the correct position.
- 4). Screw the HardieBacker board to the subfloor with cement board screws. Starting on one edge, place screws at least 3/8 inch from the edge, every eight inches along the edge but no closer than two inches to each corner. Work across the board, placing a row of screws every eight inches. Finish on the far edge with a final row of screws, staying 3/8 inch from the edge and two inches from the corner. Set the heads of the screws flush with the surface.
- 5). Block foot traffic to the new HardieBacker board installation for 24 hours to allow the mortar to set up and cure. Do not install the tile until the mortar has been allowed to cure. Do not walk on the Hardiebacker until the mortar has cured.
- 6). Tape joints between panels with fiberglass tape and the same mortar used to tile the floor. This should be done as the floor is being tiled. Embed the joint with mortar and apply the tape across the top of the joint. Spread a thin layer of mortar on the tape to hold it in place.
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