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- The interlocking style of laminate flooring requires no gluing, which saves on time and reduces the mess of the installation process. The pieces click together to form the floor and hold one another in place. The laminate flooring resembles actual wood flooring with a much easier installation process. In many cases, you can install the interlocking laminate right over the existing floor covering. It is durable with resistance to scratches and denting. You also have less maintenance since the glueless laminate flooring doesn't need polished or waxed to maintain its appearance.
- If the room is currently carpeted, you need to remove the carpeting before you lay the laminate. You can also remove other flooring types, such as vinyl flooring, or install the laminate over it. If you choose to remove the old flooring, pull up all remnants, including staples and glue that held it in place. Give the new flooring at least 72 hours to acclimate to the humidity and temperature in the room before starting the installation.
- An interlocking laminate floor needs special underlayment material on the floor before installation. If the chance for moisture from the subfloor exists, you'll need a moisture barrier down first. This is particularly a concern when placing laminate over cement. You'll also place down an underlayment material that provides cushioning and sound dampening effects. Read the manufacturer's directions to determine if a specific type of vapor barrier or underlayment is required for the warranty.
- The first row of the laminate flooring needs the tongue portion cut off before laying it in the room. You'll typically leave 1/4-inch gap between the wall and the first row to allow for expansion, but you should read the directions to determine the space recommended for your specific flooring. A spacer keeps the board lined up properly. The ends of the boards for the subsequent rows should be staggered so that the boards don't line up down the floor. This weakens the joints and takes away from the real wood look of the flooring. Stagger the ends of the boards by at least 12 inches. Continue working across the room snapping in the planks using the tongue and groove system. You may need to cut the boards as you near the edges of each row. Cut the planks for the final rows as necessary to fit into the remaining space, keeping in mind the expansion area. A pull bar and a hammer can help you lock in the last boards.
Advantages
Preparation
Underlayment
Installation
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