Vermicompost Plants

• Worms are the secret to vermicomposting.worm image by Ksenija Djurica from Fotolia.com
  
  Vermicomposting is similar to compost piles, but instead of relying on the organic matter to decompose, as you do with compost piles, vermicomposting uses worms to turn waste in to compost. So, vermicompost is a mixture of decomposed and non-decomposed matter as well as worm casts, or worm feces.Not only is vermicompost beneficial to soil and plants, but it also cuts down on the amount of household trash that makes it to the curb.
  
  

Benefits

• Vermicompost contains no harmful pathogens. Worm casts contain five times more microorganisms than their feed, which help in decomposition and nitrogen-fixing; which allows nitrogen in the atmosphere to be used in the soil. Furthermore, these casts contain five times more nitrogen, seven times more phosphorous and 11 times more potassium than ordinary soil. These ingredients are necessary for plant growth and the main ones found in fertilizers. Lastly, vermicompost leads to better water retention and aeration of the soil.
  
  

The Worms

• The best worms to use are red worms, not Dew worms; they won't survive as long. Most garden stores now have them, or you can get them through mail ordering. For one pound of food waste per day, you will need one pound of, or 1000, worms. Worm population will double in about a month, which will allow you to compost more, like garden materials.
  
  

The Worm Box and Bedding

• The size of the box, wood or plastic, depends on your food waste. Weigh your food for one week and then provide a square-foot of surface area per pound. The depth should be between 8 to 12 inches. Drill a few holes in the bottom for drainage. Excess liquid can be used as fertilizer. Cover the bin loosely with dark plastic or burlap, if indoors, or a hard top outdoors, to conserve moisture and provide darkness. Ventilation is important, too. Damp bedding, like a wrung-out sponge, is necessary for the worms to live and can consist of shredded newspaper, cardboard, leaves, old manure and some dirt or sand, to provide rough material for digestion. The container should be about three-quarters full of bedding.
  
  

Feeding

• Basically, you can add the same food to a vermicompost as you would a compost pile. Smaller pieces are better.Don't add inorganic material, such as metal and plastics. Add vegetables, fruits, coffee grounds and filters, crushed and dried eggshells and plant trimmings. With dairy products and meats, use a little at first, finely chopped and spread-out well. They can cause bad smells. Bury scraps, in different areas of the box, every few days.
  
  

Maintaining the Bin

• With the correct ratio of worms, food and surface area, there is little to do but add food. Wait about two and a half months and there should be little bedding, only worm castings. Separate the worms from the finished compost or they will die. Separate the contents by hand by dumping them on to a plastic sheet. You can use these worms to start a new box. You can also separate the contents in the box by moving the compost to one side and placing new bedding with a little of the old compost on the other side. The worms will crawl over to the new bedding.
  
  

Using Vermicompost

• Vermicompost is stronger than normal compost, so use less. You can mix it with topsoil around plants in the garden or in pots and containers. If using in pots and containers, don't use it pure; mix with about three times as much soil. It can also be used as a liquid fertilizer. Mix 2 tbsp. of compost with one quart of water and let it sit for a day, shaking occasionally.