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Gora Kadan, a Relais & Chateaux ryokan (country inn) three hours south of Tokyo, is not only considered one of the finest properties in Japan; it has been called one of the top five hotels in all of Asia.
The inn's modern Japanese architecture, which features long open corridors built with wood, concrete, and cool tile, frames views of scenic green hills as if they were art. Everywhere there is balance, harmony, order, beauty.
First opened in 1989, Gora Kadan has the look and amenities of a traditional Japanese onsen (hot-springs bathing facility) combined with many comforts of the West. During the steamy typhoon season (which extends from the end of August through September), in-room air conditioning is a blessing.
Guests, save for those who already travel with a personal butler or manservant, will find the level of service at Gora Kadan extraordinary; it's part of what makes it such an exceptional property.
Upon your arrival, your housekeeper will come out to meet you, carry your bags, acquaint you with the room (and keep it tidy), care for your basic needs until your departure, and serve all of your meals, bowing humbly each time he enters or exits from your presence.
See a Guest Room >
Guest Rooms at Gora Kadan
Japan's first ryokan to offer private, open-air baths, Gora Kadan contains 37 spacious guest rooms.
Be sure to remove your shoes before you enter yours. The floor is covered in woven-straw tatami mats. Inside you will find yukatas provided. These are belted cotton robes to wear in the room, to the bath, and anywhere on the property. You'll also receive a pair of sandals in exchange for your shoes, which you won't see again until departure.
Room 501, a corner suite, has living and sleeping areas separated by sliding rice-paper walls. The spare, simple bedroom provides futons that rest on the floor. Two-sided pillows offer a charcoal layer on one side and a softer filling on the other.
The pristine and unadorned main room features a low table in the center surrounded by two legless chairs with pillow seats. A small flatscreen cable TV (the only station in English is CNN), DVD player, and CD are provided. An Ethernet wire for Internet connectivity is available, and two-prong outlets that work with United States plugs are plentiful.
A high-tech Japanese toilet (we only wished that the buttons were identified in English so that we would have been emboldened to try them) sits in a separate area in the bathroom, with its own door, light, and sink.
Nearby, a bi-level mirrored area with sinks leads to the outdoor shower and adjacent large wooden tub. The tradition is to wash in the shower before submersing in the tub. Perfect for two at any time of day, the water can be adjusted to your comfort level.
It's ideal for couples who aren't accustomed to hot baths and hotter onsen springs. Cooler water is particularly a relief in torrid times.
The bath isn't the only space for private relaxation. A glassed-in porch with comfortable rattan chairs is a lovely spot for reading or contemplation. Next to it is the suite's wraparound terrace with chairs, a table, and an elevated daybed overlooking the woodlands.
A housekeeper keeps it all neat, serves your meals, and tends to your general well-being. Ours, a gracious man named Taka, spoke perfect English and even laughed at our jokes.
Taste the Food >
Dining at Gora Kadan
Like everything else at Gora Kadan, food is exceptional and presented with characteristic Japanese artistry. Breakfast and dinner are included in the rate.
On our first night, a beaker of chilled saké awaited us in the private dining room. When one of us confessed that saké was not our drink of choice, a tumbler of house-made plum wine was graciously substituted.
Appetizers arrived on a stone plate covered with a decorative leaf and topped by an abalone shell.
The entree was shabu-shabu, a pot of boiling water infused with seaweed broth in which we cooked slender slices of finely marbled sirloin and added mushrooms, cellophane noodles, tofu, and other vegetables. Three dipping sauces -- white sesame, black sesame (a house original), and ponzu added zest to the fare.
Choose either a Japanese or western-style breakfast. We picked the latter, and not only was it presented with typical Japanese order and harmony, it was one of the most delicious breakfasts we'd enjoyed anywhere in the world.
The morning's bounty consisted of a perfectly cooked omelette, broccoli soup, lightly dressed salad, toast and a roll with offerings of sweet sesame jam, homemade peanut butter, marmalade, honey, and butter. And there was more! Corn flakes, yogurt topped with a prune, orange juice, and coffee with cream and sugar started the day.
Yet by the time dinner arrived, we were hungry again. On the second night we feasted on a traditional Japanese kaiseki dinner -- course after course of beautifully presented fish and uncommon vegetable dishes complemented by fine saké and homemade plum wine.
Note: Don't be offended when the male in your party is serrved first; it's Japanese tradition.
Weddings, Japan Style >
Destination Weddings at Gora Kadan
Weddings can be conducted on site at Gora Kadan. In good weather, the couple and their guests gather at the end of a walkway for an intimate ceremony on a balcony surrounded by tall bamboo trees.
After taking their vows, bride and groom can lead guests down the long hallway to their reception in the adjoining Kaiseki Kadan. This restaurant once served as the summer home of Prince Kan-in-no-miya, a member of the Japanese Imperial family.
If a couple is hosting a larger gathering, the Japanese Grand Banquet Room can accommodate up to 125 guests. Smaller indoor rooms are also available.
Couples who practice the Shinto religion, prevalent in Japan, can marry at the ancient Hakone shrine nearby and begin their blessed new life together there.
Room for a Honeymoon >
Honeymoon Room at Gora Kadan
Gora Kadan is a place to celebrate a quiet, peaceful honeymoon.
While most rooms feature futon beds on tatami-mat floors, there are also a few quarters where couples can cuddle in beds that are off the ground.
What to Do While You're Here >
Activities at Gora Kadan
Bathing, relaxation, and the enjoyment of fine food are essential activities at Gora Kadan. If you're not fortunate enough to book a suite with a private bath -- or if you just want to experience the pleasures of Japanese life, visit the hotel's bathing facilities, which feature separate quarters for women and men.
Beyond each changing area, there's a large bath. And beyond that is the onsen (hot springs bath), open to the air.
Traditionally, bathers soak in the nude in these communal spots after washing up before entering.
To see what a variety of onsen in Japan look like, acquire a copy of The Way of the Japanese Bath(compare prices), artfully portrayed by renowned photographer and teacher Mark Edward Harris.
Water lovers will also be drawn to Gora Kadan's ground-floor pool, surrounded by comfortable lounges. It's open from 7 to 7. After that, the karaoke bar located on the same level pumps out the tunes.
Other facilities on the property that couples my want to visit include a coffee bar, reading room, relaxation area with complimentary massage chairs, a gym, souvenir shop, and stone hammam.
The Japanese spa, located in an adjacent building, offers an Oriental kuna massage. This hands-on technique combines shiatsu, reflexology, and Swedish massage with oils.
Discover the Local Area >
Hakone and Hakone Shrine Near Gora Kadan
It's worth a visit to the nearby resort town of Hakone. Antiques stores sell vintage woodblock prints, precious porcelain tableware, local Hakone marquetry, and other uncommon collectibles.
There's also a waterpark, a refuge for locals on hot days; the landmark Fujiya hotel , which has hosted everyone from Charlie Chaplin to John Lennon and Yoko Ono to the members of the International Mustache Club.
For lunch, head to the nearby Hakone Hotel Kawaki-En noodle restaurant. Condiments include a wasabi root and a mini board to grate your own.
A bit further away, Hakone Shrine dates back to the year 757. A sacred Shinto place of prayers and wishes, couples can marry here, at the top of Mount Hakone. Or simply buy a fortune and tie it to a post to come true. Here you can also purchase a wooden plate to write your desires upon and join it to others'. At year's end, all are burnt.
Be sure to take a sip from the sacred dragon water fountain for good fortune; a kiosk sells empty bottles that visitors can fill with the elixir.
Pregnant couples and those with newborns pay a visit to a very tall, very broad, very old cedar tree on the premises that is encircled by a golden rope. It's said have the power to ensure healthy babies.
A walkway from the shrine descends to Lake Ashi, a recreational area where couples can board a sightseeing boat or take out a rowboat.
If 12,388-foot Mount Fuji -- said to be the most beautiful view in Japan, especially when topped with snow -- complies, she will reveal herself behind less-steep mountains if the clouds lift.
But Fuji-san is said to be shy, so if she does not appear, you must persist and try to view her at another time or from another spot.
What Could Be Improved >
Gora Kadan Would be Perfect If...
Truly exceptional, Gora Kadan aims to create a perfect retreat and succeeds on just about every level.
One minor detail did frustrate us: Although the hotel claims to feature wi-fi, it actually makes an ethernet cable available to connect to the Internet. That's misleading and an inconvenience to those who travel with devices such as the iPad that have no cable input.
Also, we would have loved some fragrant soaps and candles to bring out the sensuality of our room's environment, but that may be in conflict with traditional, pristine Japanese style.
Last, we see room for improvement in the bathroom area (although we loved the giant wooden bathtub). Sinks are small, and a magnifying makeup mirror (rather than just a hand mirror) is always a plus.
We would have appreciated a few big fluffy towels rather than the small, thin ones provided. And a card explaining in English the toilet's many additional features would have been appreciated.
What to Expect >
Gora Kadan attracts a mix of Japanese (about 80 percent) and European guests. Few Americans have made their way here yet, partially due to the distance and also because of the expense, coupled with the poor exchange rate between the yen and the U.S. dollar.
Nonetheless, for couples who want to experience a luxurious yet traditional ryokan, Gora Kadan is the acknowledged gold standard in this type of lodging.
Suites are large, baths are welcoming, the architecture is graceful and balanced, mountainside views are inspiring, food is exceptionally good, and service is flawless.
For those reasons, Gora Kadan is ideal spot for a honeymoon and romantic getaway. Although we saw several familes with screechy new babies in the lobby, they were neither seen nor heard from again and our peace and privacy were consistently maintained.
One of the unique things about a stay here is that couples can spend their entire honeymoon wearing yukatas (when they're not in the nude). So dressing for dinner, like everything else in this magnificent escape from the modern world, is a no-stress affair.
Find Out More >
Contact Information:
Gora Kadan
1300 Gora Hakone-Machi
Ashigara-shimogun
Kanagawa-ken Japan
81 (0) 460 82 3331
Official Hotel Web Site
As is common in the travel industry, the writer was provided with complimentary accommodation and meals for the purpose of reviewing those services. While it has not influenced this review, About.com believes in full disclosure of all potential conflicts of interest. For more information, see our ethics policy.
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