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How to Troubleshoot a Maytag ABB2224DES
- 1). Make sure the refrigerator is plugged in, and that the circuit breaker/fuse is fully operational. Make sure the temperature controls are set towards the middle of the dial for the most energy-efficient cooling. Make sure the doors are securely closed. Allow 24 hours after initial installation for the unit to cool completely.
- 2). Avoid opening the doors frequently or for long periods of time. This greatly increases the internal temperature. Check the door gaskets for a proper seal, and replace if worn, flattened or broken.
- 3). Unplug the unit and remove the service panel. Inspect all wiring for burns, breaks or loose connections, and replace as necessary. Use only appliance-grade wire.
- 4). Remove the kick panel and vacuum the condenser coils free of lint and dust.
- 5). Check the inside of the freezer for ice buildup. If there is ice inside the freezer, there is ice on the evaporator. Keep the refrigerator and freezer open for 24 hours to manually defrost. If the unit cools afterward, replace the defrost heater assembly. If it still doesn't cool, there may be a problem with your compressor or you may be low on coolant, which must be refilled by a repair technician.
- 6). Locate the compressor on the back of the unit. If the refrigerator is getting power but the compressor is not running, or if the compressor is running but the unit is not cooling, there may be a problem within the condenser itself. Contact a repair technician, as this requires special tools and training.
- 1). Unplug the refrigerator and open the service panel. Locate the water line that runs from the back of the fridge to the house's water supply. Inspect the line for kinks, leaks and clogs. Replace as necessary.
- 2). Inspect the water inlet valve for a tight connection with the hose. This is where the hose connects to the fridge. If the connection is loose, replace the valve. Test the connection to the house's water supply as well, and replace it if it is loose.
- 3). Empty the drip pan under the unit and inspect it for cracks or holes. Replace if necessary.
- 4). Consider that the leaking water may not be a leak at all, but simply heavy condensation. This occurs when the ambient temperature is very warm or humid, or if the doors have been opened frequently or for a long period of time. This is a normal part of operation.
- 1). Listen closely to the noise. According to Amana, clicking, whooshing, whirring and gurgling are all normal operating sounds. You may also hear thumping as ice cubes drop into the tray, or a buzzing as the ice maker fills up. The automatic defrost heater can make a hissing or popping sound as water drips onto the coils.
- 2). Remove the kick plate and locate the drip pan. If the noise is coming from there, try taping the pan into place. If there is still a noise coming from there, replace the defrost timer, located next to the drip pan.
- 3). Make sure your refrigerator is level if you hear a vibrating sound. Use a carpenter's level to make sure it is level from side to side, and that the front is 1/4 inch higher than the back. Remove the kick plate and unscrew the feet to lengthen.
- 4). Unplug the refrigerator and vacuum the condenser on the back of the unit. If the noise still comes from the condenser, replace it.
- 5). Locate the compressor - a medium-sized black box on the rear of the unit. If the nose is coming from there, it must be replaced. Contact a repair center.
No Power/Cooling
Leaks
Noise
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