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Nearly every kitchen has a corner around which the cabinets and counter top must turn. While a lazy Susan or 45-degree corner unit may be a way to try and use this odd space, the most basic type of base unit to put into a corner is a blind corner cabinet. This unit fits into the corner on one wall and the cabinet on the adjacent wall butts into the blind corner cabinet. As such, only the exposed area will require a door to access the entire cabinet opening.
This base cabinet will be built with no center shelf, although you could easily add one for versatility of the space. When properly finished, you can easily add the cabinet doors of your choice to the face of the unit.
To build this cabinet, you'll need a 4x8 sheet of sanded birch or pine plywood and a 32-1/4 inch by 30-3/4 inch piece of 1/4-inch thick plywood for the cabinet back to strengthen the carcase. For tools, use a large table saw, a stacked dado blade set, a circular saw or jig saw, a finish nailer with 1-1/4 inch finish nails, a combination square and some wood glue.
Begin with the side panels. Set up your table saw so that the blade is 1-inch above the top of the table and the fence is 35-1/4 inches from the near side of the blade. Place a 4x8 sheet of plywood flat on the table with the 4-foot side flush with the fence. Start the saw and push the plywood through the blade, then set aside the extra plywood. Adjust the fence to 24 inches and cut the plywood piece you just ripped in half to make two matching sides measuring 35-1/4 inches tall by 24 inches wide.
Using a combination square and a pencil, mark out a 4-inch tall by 3-inch deep cutout on the bottom front corner of each side for a toe kick. Cut out the pieces using a circular saw or jig saw, then set the two panels aside for the moment.
Out of the remaining plywood cutoff section, cut the following pieces:
- 1 - Cabinet Bottom: 23-3/4 inches by 32-1/4 inches
- 1 - Toe kick: 4-inches by 31-1/2 inches
- 2 - Top Rails: 4-inches by 32-1/4 inches
- 1 - Rear Nailer Rail: 3-inches by 31-1/2 inches
- 1 - SubRail: 4-inches by 10-1/2 inches
- 1 - Filler Section: 21-inches by 29-3/4 inches
- 1 - Cabinet Door Support: 2-1/4 inches by 29-3/4 inches
After cutting all of the pieces, install a stacked dado blade into the table saw (or a radial-arm saw if it can be set up for ripping) with chippers matching the width of the plywood. Adjust the blade height to 3/8-inch and set the fence at 23-3/4 inches from the near side of the blade. Place one cabinet side with the inner face down on the table with the front edge against the fence. Turn on the saw and cut a rabbet along the back edge to accommodate the plywood backer. Repeat with the other cabinet side board.
Move the fence so that it is 31-1/4 inches from the near side of the dado blade, then place one of the side panels inner face down on the table with the top edge of the panel against the fence and rip a dado for the bottom shelf into the panel. Repeat with the opposite panel.
For the final cuts, adjust the fence to 34-1/2 inches from the near side of the blade and rip a rabbet along the top edge of the inner face to accommodate the top rails. Repeat with the other panel.
To assemble the cabinet, begin by applying wood glue into one of the dadoes for the cabinet bottom. Spread out the glue evenly using a small brush, then place the short side of the cabinet bottom into the dado. Attach the bottom to the side with a few finish nails through the outside of the cabinet. Repeat with the other side panel.
Next, attach the top rails both on the front and back of the top rabbets. Use glue only on the areas that the two boards will mate, and affix with finish nails. Note that the rear top rail should not extend into the rabbet for the plywood backer.
After attaching the top rails, add the plywood backer to the rear of the cabinet. No glue is necessary for this joint, but adjust the cabinet so that the backer sits evenly within the rabbets before attaching with finish nails.
Attach the toe kick to the two cabinet sides beneath the plywood bottom using finish nails through the sides. Then attach the filler section to the front edge of the cabinet that will be covered up by the adjoining cabinet using finish nails. Attach the door support to the exposed edge of the filler section using glue and finish nails.
Two pieces remain: first, attach the sub rail beneath the front rail in the open cabinet area using finish nails. Finally, place the rear nailer's face flush against the cabinet back and push it up so that is is just touching the bottom of the rear top rail. Attach with finish nails to the top rail and sides.
To install the cabinet, set it into the corner and drive wood screws through the rear nailer into studs within the wall. Do not merely attach it to drywall, as the drywall won't be strong enough to hold the cabinet.
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